recipe: tomato veggie chili

Ok, so there is a very Suburban Traditional version of the chili recipe that’s probably been floating around since the 50s. It is tomato based and I’m sure it probably came out of McCall’s or some similar magazine for aspiring non-regional cooks to spice up Friday night so it wasn’t always about meatloaf. Now, despite not being a native, I’ve read up on it enough to know that tomato chili is not authentic, plus I’ve been enough times to the Southwest to tasted the difference between the tomato, beef and bean version from a chili pepper flesh version.

However, that’s not to say, you cannot marry the old school of chili based in chili peppers and chili that is steep in the tomato regime, which is what this very vegetarian version seeks to do. Funny enough, the original Mexican chili recipes from what I understand were veggie stews anyhow, so the concept itself isn’t that far off. However, one could very easily make this using ground meat like my mom always did… perhaps another recipe for another time. This uses the pre-packaged veggie crumble available in most freezer sections, but hand chopped veggie burgers can work as a substitute. The tomatoes are the canned, diced kind, fresh can work too, if you have them available (I didn’t, sorry not Jersey Tomato season yet), either way, you have to get the liquids out, but for some reason canned actually works better because the skins are less prominent I think.

onion
bell pepper
celery
garlic
chipolte peppers
tomato (pressed, but hold the liquids too)
tomato paste
veggie crumble
dark red kidney beans
stock (mostly veggie, but beef, or perhaps pork can work too)
house seasoning
cumin
chili powder
dried rosemary
bay leaf
dried cilantro
stock pot

Finely dice the onion, garlic, bell pepper and celery and place in a stock pot over low heat
Sweat the veggies over low heat allowing their flavors to meld, season with the house season (it should contain some salt, if not add sea salt to aid in the sweating) keep stirring so nothing burns
Once the veggies are thoroughly sweat and just beginning to brown add the pressed chopped tomato and the diced chipolte, re-season with the house seasoning
Continue to work the mixture over low heat to continue melding the flavors, and keep stirring so nothing burns and add the dried rosemary and the bay leaf
Add the tomato juices and stock in equal parts (do not make over wet) and season with the chili power, cumin and house seasoning
Allow to simmer over low heat to let the flavors meld
Add the tomato paste (and adobo from the chipolte as necessary) After 20-30 minutes (minimum) or as the existing liquid has reduced by half add the kidney beans and cilantro after the mixture
Continue to simmer adding stock as necessary through the rest of the cooking process, re-season with house seasoning and/or chilli power as necessary

After it is fully simmered serve, the longer the better, short version could be as little as 30-40 minutes, long version 3-6 hours. For me today, I served it over huge dollop of grits with some chopped collards. Grits, you say! Yes, grits. Ok, a little irregular, or so seemingly, but trust me, it’s a great experience on this type of chili, I love chili’s served on unique tables, my rojo is over a corn bread, so since this is a veg dish this seemed like a tasty idea.

recipe: gumbo aux charise et okra

Cajun (Canadian outcasts from Acadia in the 1800s) and creole (the combination of French and Iberian and African descents) is as much a part of the American landscape of food as many of our traditional “other” dishes and influenced our cooking well beyond what most people understand or comprehend, yet often overlooked. Often thought as a niche style, these prolly laid more into what most dishes are and especially in Italian-American or German-American recipes that the original Italian or Germanic origins were when made here, and yet are oft’ written off because of heritage and idealism. The cajuns flight from no’reastern Canada redefined North American culture, and is NEVER taught, and by the time they settled in their Louisiana home they not only affected and effected culture, it is now almost impossible to define how they redefined original cooking styles than even some of their drawing sociological functions…

Ask me in a month about gumbo aux herbes… maybe, if i get enough prodding i’ll do that lentil version… for tonight though.. the French bouillabaisse divided among the Iberian trinity with local fish (the only way to REALLY do any dish) there’s no reason to really get all stupid about the idea. Speaking of Iberian, I was able to procure some wondeful fresh charise (chorizo sausage) and as one might do with andouile, I decided the fresh pork flavor was too good to not include (actually it was the inspiration…)

This is a quick, and dirty no’eners version of the concept, yeah, I know, but I am just that, a Jersey kid, and in the true form, I am cooking it at the concept of it’s devise, not by they creation of what restaurants are trying to give you, maybe this is more to the concept that helps you enjoy what i’ve always loved… i know there is tradition (and argument) about thickeners, it is winter and i’m going to use okra (backwards as I’m sure I will be told), but it is what I have and, of course, being good at making great roux for all other dishes that’s the true foundation of the stew…

flour
butter
onion
bell pepper
celery
garlic
okra
charise (chorizo sausage)
pork shoulder
chili powder
cumin
black pepper
stock pot

Chop coarsly the onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, okra
In the stock pot combine the 1:1 combo of butter and flourand bring it together Add the chopped the veggies to the mixture
Season the meat with the
Once the roux begins to darken and take on a tan to redish color and the veggies are softened add the meat with chili powder, cumin, paprika, black pepper
Allow the meat to begin to sear and keep it moving among the roux and veggies
Once the pork and sausage have seared off add the beer to the mixture, reseason with the cumin, pepper, chili powder, crushed rosemary and pepper, add the bay leaf
Bring up to a boil and then immediately back down to a very very low simmer
Allow to simmer and reseason as necessary till the meat is almost ready to fall apart with a fork and the sauce is thick and rich from redection and the roux

recipe: stuporbowl faves

Normally, when you see the typical Super Bowl grub it is predictable finger foods that truly reflect the breath of diversity of culinary impressions that make up the breath of the American melting pot. For me, the Superbowl has always been a time to really bring out some unique and special creations which I adapt from year to year depending on what I’m typically cooking around that time and some of my more all-time faves blended together to share with my friends. Despite the lack of a big party this year, I would have broke out the following experiments to share among friends, I came back from my hike down at the Jersey Shore to bring together these dishes to enjoy during the game. These are comfort foods to me, and in as such, the represent some of my favorite interpretations of food as I enjoy it. During the game, I was sharing thoughts with my fellow blogger Bobby (you can see the eclectic conversation we had: http://nyphillycombine.wordpress.com/)

There are a couple of courses to the SB meal so scroll through them

Beer and Cheese Soup
Anyone can bust out the canned quesso or some cheese wiz and then try and ‘doctor it up’ into something, but why go though the hassle when you can have it done right the first time and really bring some flavor to the party. Besides… beer and cheese, c’mon you totally weren’t going to do that with the canned crap anyhow!

Ingreds:
butter
flour
milk (or heavy cream)
onion
garlic
chipolte pepper
celery
extra sharp cheddar cheese (shredded)
beer (a nice amber lager or light ale works best)
stock (pork is preferable, beef will work too)
chorizo sausage (pref portuguese charise, however a linguica will work too)
soup pot

Tip:
the liquids are going to be done in parts so please note the beer will be used throughout the recipe to maintain consistency so the final amount will vary. The beer and stock when combine will be about 1:1 to 2:1 beer to stock. The creme should be about 2:1 to the beer and stock to creme (the creme really is just to help set the roux as the thickener like making cheese sauces)

How:
Very finely dice the onion, pepper, celery and garlic and dice the chroizo (cut small pieces not big slices)
Add the butter and the flour to the pot (1:1) and allow to begin to combine over low heat
Once combined add the veggies and continue to work the mixture until the veggies soften and the roux to begin to brown
Do not let the roux or the veggies burn, but allow the roux to get to between a dark blond and light brick color while the veggies begin to break down
Add chorizo and the creme and combine until the creme is integrated with the roux to form a mother sauce
Add the beer and stock mixture and the cheese and stir lightly to combine
Bring the mixture up to a boil and immediately back down to a simmer stirring constantly
Allow to simmer watching the consistency so it remains thick and rich, do not allow the mixture to burn to the bottom (heat is too high) or begin to chuck (heat might be too low)… add beer as necessary during simmering to maintain consistency.
When the soup is ready there should be almost no veggies left to feel in the soup (you can use a blender to thin them out if absolutely necessary) and it should be a creamy and rich combination with balanced flavors
Serve with finely chopped flat leaf parsley and additional grated cheese as desired

Note:
I actually have made this without the charise and with veggie stock, so it is possible to do it other ways, but the charise and pork stock make a nice pairing to the cheese. I’ve also done this with a blended cheese mixture, so feel free to experiment with the cheeses as long as they maintain the consistency of the soup.

Pork and Poblano Chili
Nachos ’supreme’ are so cliche and chili and chips can be pretty plain (besides, the kidney beans make the beer drinking guests fart more). This isn’t my chili verde recipe, but the color and the flavors will definitely turn more than a few heads and tantalize a few tastebuds who probably had one too many hamburger helpers lately.

Ingreds:
onion
poblano peppers
green jalipino or other hot pepper
celery
garlic
bay leaf
cubed pork (very small cubes)
andouile sausage
green chili powder (ancho or other red will work too)
cumin
white pepper
rosemary
beer (a nice amber lager or light ale works best)
olive oil
flour
stock pot

Tips:
because this is a poblano chili, you will need about 2:1 poblano to the rest of your veggies. it isn’t supposed to be super hot. Most poblanos are fairly mild so if you have a batch of mild ones, use the jalipino to give it some bit, otherwise, if you have good, bold polbanos, let them do their business alone. I strongly suggest charring the polblano too to bring out the earthy flavor and really give the dish some depth. Take the whole cooking process SLOW. Like most long cook meals, you can do 30 minutes cook time, but trust me, 3 hours is a much better minimum, set it up and after the first 15 minutes of cooking just check it at regular intervals and go about the rest of your business.

How:
Coarsely chop onion, poblano peppers, jalipino celery and garlic and place it in a large stock pot
1:1 oil and flour should be added to the pot and set the heat to medium, stirring constantly so the veggies begin to soften and the roux begins to form
Dust the pork with the cumin, white pepper, chili powder, crushed rosemary and white pepper
Once the roux begins to darken and take on a tan to redish color and the veggies are softened add the cubed pork and sliced sausage
Keep the whole mixure moving lightly and slowly sear off the pork and sausage
Once the pork and sausage have seared off add the beer to the mixture, reseason with the cumin, while pepper, chili powder, crushed rosemary and white pepper, add the bay leaf
Bring up to a boil and then immediately back down to a very very low simmer
Allow to simmer and reseason as necessary till the meat is almost ready to fall apart with a fork and the sauce is thick and rich from redection and the roux
Nicest to finally serve with chips and let people dig in or with collard lined bowls with shredded cheese, shredded poblano peppers and cilanro

Catfish Cakes
So, you wanted to serve chicken fingers. Ahem, lame! C’mon really? Deep fried, breaded chicken with a collage of lame “dipping” sauces? I’m not only Portuguese and grew up with spectacular codfish cakes, but I grew up in MD and have an inherent love of crab cakes. This recipe combines what I love of both into an invention that encompasses another great white fish for the experience. Trust me, it’ll turn a head and it’s not the greezy serve of those bock bocks you were gonna serve

What:
Catfish filets
whole black pepper corns
rosemary
cumin
garlic
house spice
cilantro
corn meal
large skillet

Tips:
Fresh, fresh, fresh… catfish can be realy cheap and not even the farm raised ones, but go with what you can get and it’ll really add to the experience the fresher it is. Also, for “dipping” sauces, there are a tonne of great ones, from a garlic and clarified butter, to a nice coarse ground mustard, to a chili paste, to molassase and then some… the house spice, which is a lynchpin in this recipe, could be anything from say a storebought blackening seasoning to your own personal house spice, but it is a mixture or combination of the flavors you “love” and that’s what is most important.

How:
Cut up the catfish filets into pieces (I strongly suggest not buying “catfish bits” on sale, you’ll spend too much time removing skin and “fat” and not enjoy the experience, trust me, nice fresh filets will go a long long way)
In your deep skillet put garlic, the bay leaf, rosemary and the pepper corns and bring up to a boil with water that covers at least 1/3 the depth
Once the aroma begins to exude, add the catfish filet and let it poach till it’s just about flaking
Set the fish aside and once “cooled” crumble it in a large mixing bown with rosemary, cumin, garlic, fresh cilantro and house spice to the corn meal and then coat the fish totally pressing it together against itself as necessary into palm sized balls
Keep the skillet super hot and then re-add the coated catfish
Do not let the catfish to burn to the dry skillet, keep the pan moving and the catfish searing over the high heat rolling through the pan
If necessary add a little bit of oil the the skillet to keep from burning and let the coating begin to brown before removing from heat

Note:
If necessary, you can add a nice heavy starchy mashed potato to the mixture, boil it cubed into small pieces with the fish and then mash it and combine it with the flaked fish at the same time as the spices before you hit the high heat. You may actually need a light coating of oil if you use the potato, but you’ll have to feel out your pan to decide. The potato will strech the same amount of fish twice as far, but do not over potato and for every one you add per big filet remember to reduce the corn meal by the same amount or you’ll have a dry starchy mess.

Hush Puppies
No no, not those shoes you hated as a kid, and i’m sure, if not positive that this recipe is probably a last choice but it’s designed to be a good pairing to the rest of these ideas… remember, i suck at making dough and other baking goods and I’m not typically a fryer guy either, but this, could be worth it, if you can figure out my stupidity

What:
1/2 cup finely grated veggies (onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic in “equal” parts)
flat leaf parsley
2 cups sifted fine stone ground corn meal
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons salt
1 egg
1 cup buttermilk
cold water
mixing bowl
deep skillet
oil

How:
fill skillet 1/2 deep with oil and bring up to under a simmer, no more than 375 degrees
Stir corn meal, sugar, soda together in mixing bowl
Add egg, shredded veggies and parsley and buttermilk and beat until frothy in mixing bowl
Pour wet ingreds into dry and stir lightly to mix in bowl
Add just enough of the cold water to make dough a good dropping – the dough should hold its shape in the palm of your hand
Drop by palmfulls into hot oil, keep turning until golden brown on all sides

Recipe: el tazon de rojo con carne

Wonderfully pristine snowfall this morning veiled the world in an innocent white that sparkled among the faded morning glow. I had one thought in mind el tazon de rojo con carne to warm up with from the moment the shovel came out to dig myself and my neighbor out to I got into the city to find everything sloppy slushy and gray and through my coming home reading summer passages for Neil Peart’s Ghost Rider.

The traditional southwestern ‘bowl of red’ is an oft’ alcohol fueled argument of elitist chefs. I myself only have one el tazon de rojo con carne idea but about one-hundred-and-one other chili recipes I could turn to. But this a larger than life smaller than my kitchen flavor and the in simple, earthy ideas is always a great thowback to come to. My short study in chili actually led me to learn a bunch of interesting idea, like, the original chili was simply a ’stew’ that was based in the flesh of chilis, and that truly authentic chili was purely veggie dish. Over time, and Texas (I suppose), con carne (with meat) was introduced and that chuck was saddle softened (pounded to hell from riding, not ground). After that, chili became a hugely regional affair with each-and-every place plating their own unique one, right through Cinci’s bowl that almost resembles an oddly-contrived bolognese conception that might only even use just ‘red pepper flakes.’

Anyway, as the snow begins to cover the ledge in front of my kitchen window this evening I am charring some red peppers just for this affair, that includes the more than typical tomato, ground beef, kidney bean variety that your mom probably made. For any version of el tazon de rojo con carne needs to start with something red… and with that most evil of holidays based in red, let’s make it a damned spicy one!

cubed beef
Serrano chilis (red, no doubt!)
red Habanero chili (as necessary to taste)
red bell pepper
vadalia onion
celery
garlic cloves
beef stock
beer (pref. an American style amber lager)
cilantro
ancho chili power
cumin
paprika
black pepper

There’s a trick to working with fresh peppers that is rarely given up in recipes, so I’ll attempt to lay it out here… if you have gas or oil for your stove (or access to any other open flame) this works better… char your peppers (the Bell, Serrano, Habanero) till the skins are blackened and bubbled from the flesh. Remove from the heat and immediately place in a bag to steam. After a few minutes, you should be able to peel of the skin with ease and remove the inside seeds and ‘white mess.” Trust me, the charring sounds like a pain in the you know what, it’s worth it and only a few minutes out of your time. Similarly, for a really smokey taste you can char the onion and other veggies before chopping too.

Char and coarsely chop the flesh of your peppers and coarsely chop the onion, garlic, bell pepper, celery
Combine the veggie above in a stockpot with a small amount of oil
Allow the veggies flavors to begin to meld and soften over low heat
Coat the beef in a mixture of chili power, black pepper, paprika.
Shift the veggies to one side of the stockpot and begin to add the meat (biggest chucks first) and allow them to begin to brown.
As the meat browns mix it into the veggies and then continue adding meat until all is cooked most of the way through
After browning occurs add stock and beer mixture (usually works well 1:1
Season with additional chili powder, cumin, black pepper, paprika and bay leaf.
Bring liquid up to a complete boil and than back it down to a simmer
Add beer to the mixture as liquid becomes necessary, always working toward a thick, hearty stew-like consistency and keeping the meat mostly covered.
Cooking time can be a quick and dirty 30 minutes or, for better flavor a full day affair

If you need Masa harina is like Mexican cornmeal, a coarse flour made from lime-soaked corn, and can be used to help thicken the dish. Typically, the earlier you use it the better, and it will be less gritty as it combines with the liquid.

My favorite personal way to enjoy the el tazon de rojo con carne is to pour it over a piece of nice corn bread and topped with a goat cheese (A Queso manchego would be good, but Montery jack is the preferred substitute).

If you don’t have a corn bread recipe there are a lot out there, I’m not a baker myself so the one I have is pretty lame (and probably embarrassing to anyone who actually knows how to make it). I do use roasted poblano peppers in mine though.

RECIPE: Fish Tacos, the last thing you’d expect to swim into your stomach

Let me explain where my love of fish tacos came from. My mom used to date this Hispanic guy back when I was in high school, he was a pretty good cook but when he broke out the fish tacos I cried foul!! No way, that shit’s nasty I thought but, with a little coaxing I gave them a shot, it’s been a south of the boarder love affair ever since that day….I’ve tried them just about anywhere I can, and after much research and tasting I have developed my own version of the fish taco that is pretty damn good, for a gringo that is. I have fed them to some of my Latino friends and usually always get a hearty “muy bueno” now for the recipe.
(The Taco)
1lb of tillapia fillets (or your favorite grillable white fish)
1 bunch of cilantro(divide into 1/3rds
blackening seasoning, your own or otherwise
1 doz. tortillas(corn)
1/2 diced red onion
1/2 head of shredded green cabbage
1 avocado peeled and sliced
1 lime cut into wedges
(The Sauce)
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup mayonaise
1/3 of your bunch of cilantro
1 Tbsp. Cumin
1 lime (zested & juiced)
salt & pepper to taste
I do these year round, and am going to endorse a piece of kitchen gear here lame as it sounds, but it’s a great tool The George Forman Grill works great for cooking your fish when it’s too cold out to grill for real, and it’s the best tortilla warmer around!! so here’s how this goes down,
Make your sauce first, ’cause when these are done you’re gonna want to dive in!!
combine all the sauce ingredients in a food processor or blender and pulse until mixed well, try not to puree them leave a little chunk to the cilantro and lime zest.
Then season your fish with the blackened seasoning as heavy or light as you like depends on your taste, then grill the fillets take another 1/3 of your cilantro and chop that in with your fish, again leave the fish a little chunky you don’t want mutilated tillapia just chop it and put it in a covered dish to stay warm while your heating your tortillas, then I’m a pretty firm beliver that things have an order in which they need to be put together, so here’s the assembly process.
place the fish in first, then add your chopped(chop the last 1/3 of the bunch)cilantro and diced red onion, the put a small amount of the sauce, your favorite salsa (I prefer the verde for this) and a small wedge of avacado, the squeeze a lime wedge over it and top with shredded cabbage, fold and eat!! Simple and damn good, just had ‘em tonight as a matter of fact